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Saturday, October 15, 2016

Ireland, part 4: Killarney and County Kerry


     



It only rained one day of our two week trip, and it was the day of our longest drive: Sligo to Killarney.  There were some attractions we'd hoped to see along the way that we omitted.  We had an outdoor lunch at Durty Nellie's, the tavern that's been serving the servants of Bunratty Castle since 1620.  The castle itself we skipped (plus a possible stop in Galway or Connemara), since our drive was taking longer than expected due to the rain.

We checked into our B&B then stopped at St. Mary's Cathedral.  There is a giant sequoia right in front, planted on a famine grave -- its seeds had been a gift from the people of California. An unexpected surprise.


 Inch Beach:  So Tranquil!
We drove the Dingle Peninsula and Slea Head Drive the next day, with so many stops along the way.  The first stop was the amazing Inch Beach.  So flat. So calm. So blue. Everything along the drive was lovely. Rolling hills, beautiful ocean, even a peek (only) at the Skellig Michael islands where the last scene from Star Wars episode 7 was filmed. Later in the day we saw locations used for episode 8.  Yes, my boys are Star Wars fans, as well as Game of Thrones.
Look for this view in Episode VIII!
We paid to feed some sheep and see a Lios (earthen ring fort), then later paid for Dunbeg stone fort (500 BC), neither of which gave us much information or offered tour guides.  After so many wonderful OPW sites, it was hard not be a little disappointed in that, but the feeling was minor. The Gallarus Oratory was so impressive:  a 1200 years old church that's still waterproof, even though it was built without mortar.  We lingered on the Dingle Peninsula, ate some Murphy's ice-cream, then spent an hour or so walking around Killarney so I could purchase an Aran wool sweater.
Dunbeg Fort, about 2500 years old

Gallarus Oratory
 


 The following day we set out for Killarney National Park. First stop, a tour of Ross Castle.  I was always happy to have a tour guide when we visited historic sites, but on occasion we did explore on our own.  This time, we went with a guide, so learned more about the construction of the castle doors, the uniqueness of the spiral staircase, and other interesting tidbits that we wouldn't have known otherwise. No pictures were allowed inside (not even without flash), which was not common in Ireland.

   


Next up was Muckross Abbey, with a walk past fields with beautiful black cows.  The abbey ruins were marvelous.  There's a lovely yew tree in the center of the cloisters, possibly they were built around the already mature tree, making it well over 600 years old.  My boys loved climbing around ruins such places, so we always lingered.
Yew tree in the cloister
 
Muckross Abbey, established 1448
We did the short hike to Torc Waterfall next.  This was a crowded location, but the falls were lovely and powerful, so I'm glad we stopped.
Ladies' View
   

We had a late lunch at the Ladies' View, overlooking the lakes of Killarney National Park.  Our outdoor table afforded us a fabulous view.  We drove further into the park, probably took a wrong turn or two, but the views were so amazing that we just kept going.  Eventually we figured out that we'd driven through the Black Valley and were headed to the Gap of Dunloe.  It was later in the day, so not many people (or vehicles), so we drove though it.  Amazing.  It would have been nice to hike it, but we would have certainly needed the entire day.  By the time our drive ended, it was nearly time to go The Jarvey's to hear some trad music and see some Irish step dancers.
Which way?  No signs!
   

On Wednesday, it was time to leave Killarney for the relatively short drive to Ennis, our fifth and final stop of this fantastic trip.  That's right, somehow we missed most of the famous Ring of Kerry.  We'd hoped to get down to Mizen Head as well, but there wasn't enough time.  And there were only three days left!  Looks like we'll be back in Ireland someday!

Check out the final installment of our wonderful trip:  http://readyforthenextvacation.blogspot.com/2016/10/ireland-part-5-ennis-and-county-clare.html

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